There are lot of information going around about old Stigas that actually rather make things more difficult than ease your decision to buy. I try to summarize what to pay attention to.
The soul of the an old Stiga is its neck. If there are haircracks that blade will not lasts long. Is some opinion a haircrack in the neck is essential old Stiga feature. Tere are couple of players in our club have cracked racket and they keen on their rackets. I don’t really understand that and don’t agree. The neck of the racket is the part that gets the biggest effect, moreover between the handle parts the neck suffers from high torque and continuous bending force. This is the certain part collects and relays information and resonance to your palm. In addition the neck is the wooden spring of a blade.
In one word this is the part that should be perfect. Haircracked or porous neck results not only risk of flying head but also means lost feeling or decreasing effect of written above eg. the wood can bend more to forehand or backhand direction, dampening, kicks smaller than it did before or sounds blunt like a dead wood on knocking since its rezonance center goes wrong. I understand some public opinion says these problems can be solved. I have heard much about “special glues” and “it will be better than a new” style fixing but no need to be expert to think it over what the result will be. A broken racket can be really playable if an expert fixes t but I am convinced the original condition can never be approached.
I made 4 groups of fixing processes.
This solution is about injecting some kind of glue into the haircrack. Some uses special wooden glue but I met also cyanoacrylate glue. Heating up the cracked part helps the glue to infiltrate into the wood fibres. My Alser European Champion 1969 is injected by instrument hide glue resulted almost the original feeling but last only few months.
If all 5 plies cracked over usually a 3-4 mm hole is drilled parallel into the crack and a round stick is glued in the hole applying injection process besides. There are woodworkers prefer hard sticks and others like softer pins but once I met steel stick glued in. All these rackets I tried stopped resonating and damping more than an arylate/carbon wood. The neck became a bit more solid and also the extra weight of the glue helps the racket going faster.
Round “coin” implant
It is our own invention for fixing the core only. With a precise micro cutter machine a slot is cut into the neck so deep that the crack disappear. It is like a coin slot. A wooden coin should be made that perfectly fits into the slot. Then this round impland should be glued into the slot in the right grain direction. Finally the remaining implant out of the core should be sand down carefully. This process needs the most precision and takes a lot of work but results the less difference compared to the original racket and lasts the longer among all the methods. I met and tried sqare implants that needs square slot chiseled but the risk of cracks appear again higher with this method.
This is when a faulty rackets head is sit onto another rackets bottom with using a special profiled cutter used in laminating companies. I think it is no use of checking the result from authentic viewpoint.
to be continued…